Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.
This is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.
"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of growers who produce wine from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Around the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist urban areas remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from construction by creating permanent, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from about fifty vines. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over 150 vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than £7 a serving in the growing number of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make good, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's reviving an traditional method of making vintage."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various wild yeasts are released from the skins into the liquid," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries add preservatives to kill the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to install a barrier on